Bryce Canyon to Grand Canyon

Thursday, June 22, something like 9pm

I'm at the Grand Canyon, camping on the North Rim, literally 200 feet from the edge of the canyon. It's pretty cool. I'm not actually sure what time it is because I'm so turned around right now. I noticed a sign somewhere saying something about how Arizona doesn't do Daylight Savings Time but I just ignored it, then when I got back to camp the store was still open at 8:20 when I thought it closed at 8. Well there is that hour, the clock in the store says 7:20 and my only thought is that I'm happy that I'm able to buy a beer and, since I'm leaving the state tomorrow, I don't have to try and figure out what time it actually is.

The day started off with me waking from a great night of sleep at Bryce Canyon National Park - it was a great stay there, I saw some beautiful things, had some relaxing time and rediscovered one of my favorite things - sunflower seeds.

I had breakfast at the same place I had it yesterday, the Thunderbird at Mt. Carmel Junction, Utah and the waitress even remembered me. I got to finish the story on the menu about how the place was founded way back when and I read in the USA Today that it was make or break for the US in the World Cup and even though when I read that story (about 10am) the games had already ended, I still don't know the outcome.

One of the reasons I bought the USA Today is that I was trying to figure out where these Arizona wildfires are that I keep hearing bits and pieces about. Well, the fire isn't anywhere I will be going but it's within a couple hundred miles which I guess means I have to care.

I saw a couple fire-fighting helicopters today from a distance and one up close. The road to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is about 50 miles and once you turn down that road, there is pretty much only one place you are going. I saw 2 helicopters before I got on that road and then when I was on the road I saw one that must have been picking up water from a lake near to the road because it was right on top of me as I turned a corner and then it was pulling up and away. Anytime you turn around a corner and unexpectedly see a helicopter above you, it's kind of cool but this had a mission more important than covering traffic or routine patrol, I saw the detail in the hose that dangles from the bottom and everything.

Today I spent the better part of the ride in my motorcycle jacket which I was pretty excited to be able to wear again. As I was looking at the color-coded weather map on the back page of the USA Today I happened to notice that, in the past week, I have driven through the hottest part of the country. The orange that is the southern US on that map turned to bright red around southern California. The high for the lower 48 was set in the Southern California desert at 114 yesterday. It kind of makes me feel like a chump for wondering why no one was at the Salton Sea. No one was there because no one vacations in 3 digit temperatures. I don't actually know how hot it was when I was there but when I got to Vegas I checked and it was currently 102 with a high around 110. The one upside to this major oversight is that I know that I survived that so the rest of the ride should be relatively cool by comparison.

The Grand Canyon was outstanding. I got in around 1, set up camp then drove out to see the views, which were AMAZING. I took several pictures which no doubt do no justice but are, at least, something. You are standing on a ledge that looks over miles of red ridges and cliffs and cuts around in ways that you've never seen nor could ever imagine. Outside the amazing views from afar one of the most amazing things is how close they let you get to the edge. There are places where they've carved out and put gravel and edging down to make a viewing area and not put up any kind of fence. And where there are fences, they lead right to the edge, no little buffer where a child could land if they mistook the fence for a toy. Nope, just the kid and a mile of air before... SPLAT! I had a conversation with strangers several times from these ledges wondering how they get away with it and how more people don't die.

I've been on the road a week now and tomorrow is the first day I leave a place without and end point in mind, I'm just driving as far as I can. I've gone about 1500 miles so far and it's about 1250 from here to Austin, which is the next place that I need to get too. If I can put down 500 miles tomorrow I'll be happy, that would put me near Albuquerque and then another day and half ride to Austin. To add some "fun" to the equation I've learned that the road I need to take as soon as I get out of the park may be smoked out from forest fires. As of today it was "intermittently closed" which means they are only "piloting" cars through, ie a ranger leads a pack of cars through the smoke. I won't know until I get to this road tomorrow what the situation is but I'm sure that will be interesting. Either way, I haven't showered since Monday and I'm running out of "clean" clothes, even by my lowered standard of "clean" - however I will say that I'm quite sure I don't smell and the clothes are that big a deal.